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Published on January 10th, 2011 | by Rita

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Dominate the Crag with BlueWater and Omega Pacific

Itʻs a brand new year, and many gyms across the coun­try, and across the world, will be crammed full of peo­ple who have re­solved to lose that ex­tra hol­i­day weight. We de­vised our own res­o­lu­tion for the year, or at least for this month, which is to avoid all of those oth­er peo­ple fill­ing up the gyms. Many of us here at Tru­ly In­dus­tries in­dulge at our lo­cal rock gyms and out­door crags, and since the gyms are full, the climb­ing choic­es were clear. We load­ed up gear, and head­ed out to the crag, in or­der to bet­ter in­form you, dear read­er, about some of the coolest gear around. It was a com­plete­ly self­less act on our part, we as­sure you. No fun was had here, none at all. Not even when we were us­ing our cara­bin­ers to crack open the brews af­ter we were done. (Note: Climb­ing is a dan­ger­ous sport. We do not con­done or ad­vo­cate drink­ing al­co­hol be­fore climb­ing, or while climb­ing.)

There are sev­er­al things that are nec­es­sary to have in or­der to climb out­doors. First you need a rope. That seems like a sim­ple thing, but the re­al­i­ty is that ropes can be com­pli­cat­ed and slight­ly con­fus­ing. There are sin­gle ropes, dou­ble ropes, half ropes, dy­nam­ic, stat­ic, and dry, and thatʻs just for starters. When choos­ing your rope youʻll want to con­sid­er things like your own per­son­al skill lev­el, where youʻll be tak­ing it to climb, and what kind of gear youʻll be us­ing it with (be­lay de­vices, quick­draws, etc.)

We test­ed out the Blue­Wa­ter Dom­i­na­tor at a cou­ple of dif­fer­ent crags here in Hawaii. This 9.4mm rope is one of the light­est weight sin­gle dy­nam­ic ropes you can get any­where. It weighs in at 55g per me­ter, and is rat­ed for 7UIAA falls. Our rope is the 60m stan­dard, and it al­so comes in dry and dou­ble-dry bi-col­or. (Bi-col­or means that the rope pat­tern changes at the halfway mark.) If youʻre used to us­ing a thick­er rope you might not trust this rope right off the bat. Itʻs ex­treme­ly lightweight and quite thin. It on­ly takes a few times up and down on this rope to re­al­ize itʻs ev­ery bit as durable as a 10.5mm or heav­ier rope. If you are used to us­ing a gri­gri itʻs worth men­tion­ing that this ropeʻs di­am­e­ter is too small for that de­vice.

Ver­sa­til­i­ty is the name of the game with the Dom­i­na­tor. Not on­ly is it a fan­tas­tic sin­gle dy­nam­ic rope, itʻs al­so cer­ti­fied as a Half rope, and itʻs rat­ed for 16 falls when used in this manor. If you are in the mar­ket for ul­tra-light and ul­tra-strong rope, this is ab­so­lute­ly the rope you should turn to. The Dom­i­na­tor is avail­able on Ama­zon for $207-242. Re­gard­ing ropes, nev­er con­tin­ue to use a rope past the rec­om­mend­ed time or num­ber of falls, your life and safe­ty are much more valu­able than the mon­ey it takes to get a new rope.

Part of the fun of sport climb­ing is lead­ing a climb. Thereʻs noth­ing quite like the rush you get when youʻre out on the wall, above your last bolt. When lead­ing, the kind of quick­draws you use can make a world of dif­fer­ence in how smooth­ly the climb goes. Ide­al­ly you want to have a quick­draw that is ex­treme­ly strong, and has a durable dog­bone that wonʻt fray with re­peat­ed use.

We tried out the Five-O Quick­draws from Omega Pa­cif­ic, and came to sev­er­al con­clu­sions. They are a bit heav­ier than some of our oth­er draws, but have a nice wide mouth, which makes them very easy to clip with. We have a pref­er­ence for the bent gate/wire gate com­bi­na­tion. If youʻre un­fa­mil­iar with wire gates you should def­i­nite­ly give them a try, they donʻt have the same flut­ter that a sol­id gate has. These draws al­so have a unique feel to them, itʻs al­most as if they “click” in­to an open po­si­tion. They cer­tain­ly donʻt hold them­selves open, but once you have the gate open it doesnʻt take a lot of force to keep it there, and when you re­lease pres­sure it quick­ly snaps shut again. We found that itʻs a very nice fea­ture, whether itʻs in­ten­tion­al or not. (It al­so makes them fun to click open and shut when you have noth­ing bet­ter to do with your hands.)

The weight load for these draws is 22kN, which ba­si­cal­ly means youʻre go­ing to have to try ex­treme­ly hard to sur­pass each in­di­vid­u­al drawʻs weight lim­it. The Five-Oʻs come in­di­vid­u­al­ly from Omega Pa­cif­ic for around $21 apiece, or you can pur­chase a pack of six from Ama­zon for just un­der $100.

Climb on, and have a great time!

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About the Author

Professionally in healthcare, and semi-professionally a photographer, former student at the University of Hawai'i at Mānoa, and full-time student of human nature, Rita has been writing for Truly Net for many years. Born and raised in the Midwest, she spent years on Oahu, and has formed some very strong opinions about all things knitting, pie, and the best places to climb. She really enjoys good food, music and friends, and is perfectly willing to write about, and photograph any or all of those things.



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